Isabel Marant Fall 2025: Heavy on Punk Inspired Tailoring, Layering and Leather
Isabel Marant fall 2025 ready to wear runway, fashion show & collection review. Creative director Kim Bekker tried on fashion's new anti-establishment look.
Punk is back, and it’s all over the runways in Paris, including at Isabel Marant, where creative director Kim Bekker took the lead on the fall 2025 collection while the brand’s namesake was at an Ayurvedic retreat in Sri Lanka.
“You’re in the right hands,” Marant said, breezing into the backstage looking and sounding like someone coming off a holistic recharge, explaining that she stepped back a bit from this one, but that it’s in no way permanent.
Bekker found inspiration in women (and men, because she showed menswear, too) who had their own fearless style. Joan Jett, Siouxsie Sioux and Johnny Rotten were on the mood board, as were fresh-faced photos of Kate Moss and Drew Barrymore. They all filtered through the ’80s-’90s rock ‘n’ roll mashup of punk, grunge and a bit of new romantic that was heavy on layering and tailoring, leggy minis, leather, hardware and brooches.
“I’m quite surprised everyone is into the same vibe, but I think it’s more that we feel we need to be strong again, to overcome things,” Bekker said judiciously when asked about fashion’s latest flirtation with the anti-establishment to sell more clothes.
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If there was anger, it didn’t manifest on the Marant runway, where sex appeal is really the stock in trade. There was snatched tailoring– pinstripe power shoulder blazers and layerable waistcoats, itty bitty pinstriped HotPants and respectable trouser shorts, and a pinstriped body con jumpsuit that was great looking.
Rock ‘n’ roll leathers came in many forms, including buckled micro-minis, a great pullover and cool trench coat with silver grommet and piercing hardware details.
Punk plaids, fuzzy sweaters, sheer mesh tops and new romantic polka dots also made appearances, along with a couple of ‘80s va-va-voom very tight and short cocktail dresses. And even the men had a feminine side, with touches of silver embroidery, trailing polka dot scarves, and mismatched color shoes.
The collection was loaded up with so many accessories, however — including lace and fishnet tights, belts, bags, scarves, safety pins and studs — that they detracted from the quality of design and overwhelmed a few of the looks, not to mention the senses. Then again, there was nothing quiet about punk. You have to go to an Ayurvedic retreat for that.