Top docs: Take control of how you look and feel with Tatler’s newly enhanced list of the aesthetic industry’s top 50 surgeons and doctors in the 2025 Beauty and Cosmetic Surgery Guide

Tatler's 2025 Beauty and Cosmetic Surgery Guide is on sale with the March issue, revealing everything you need to know aboiuut the buzziest industry in the country

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Tatler's 2025 Beauty and Cosmetic Surgery Guide is on sale with the March issue,

Faces

Rajiv Grover

Grover is cosmetic surgeon to the international social set, and for good reason. A former president of the BAAPS (British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons), he has charm in spades, not to mention undeniable warmth and kindness, and an excellent bedside manner. In addition, the London and Harvard-educated surgeon has a deep appreciation of art, and of beauty in all its forms: a Guggenheim professor at the Louvre, he even collaborated with the late fashion designer Alexander McQueen in developing the concept of ‘Facelift Couture’ (whereby photographs of your younger self are used to guide surgery, for a result that keeps your uniqueness and personality wholly intact). This specialist in deep-plane face- and neck-lift surgery is adored by his patients for not only making them feel beautifully renewed – and look tangibly younger – but because he cares for them from beginning to end: ‘I put in and take out every stitch,’ he says. When it comes to technique, his preservation deep-plane is a delicate yet artistic way to refresh the face; as he performs a short-scar version of the protocol, avoiding any visible mark to the temple, it leads to such little bruising and swelling that most patients go home with just paracetamol. (Since nothing rectifies post-Ozempic jowling and neck laxity as tidily, it’s the aesthetic equivalent of ‘stealth wealth’.) As Grover explains: ‘My work aims to make an elegant and significant improvement but with an end result that’s still natural, still looking like you, and as if you were never touched with the knife.’ Style and substance: no wonder the elite feel so safe in his hands. Deep-plane facelift from £26,000 (rajivgrover.co.uk).

Tunç Tiryaki

With a gentlemanly demeanour that belies his forward-thinking techniques, Tiryaki is a man in demand – and gratified by the attention. ‘Previously, our patients believed that plastic surgery was about vanity, but now there’s an understanding that it’s more about integrity,’ he says. ‘And that’s a very powerful shift. Two years ago, the ladies I saw coming for a consultation weren’t even able to acknowledge they were considering a procedure; they would just say, “I don’t feel like myself”. Today, they are learning to stand behind their wish for health and longevity.’ His stem-cell facelifts, he states, simply remedy the bone resorption and laxity brought about by modern life. (‘Our DNA is not as strong as our fathers’ or grandfathers’. Our food has changed – and so has the way we chew it – so we are not strengthening the face in the same way as our ancestors would have.’) But while Tiryaki might regenerate skin and soft tissue, he also revolumises the facial skeleton through flawless fat transfer, restoring strength to the underlying anatomy. ‘Redefining the bony architecture of the face means we no longer need to drape the skin over a slowly shrinking scaffolding,’ he says. ‘So we avoid that pulled-tight, “windswept” appearance.’ The process is staggered, according to age: for those in their early forties, fat transfer and stem cells (‘to the jawline, cheekbones and temples, as well as to correct asymmetry in the nose or lips’); for45- to 55-year-olds, perhaps the addition of a deep-plane facelift; above that, probably a neck-lift, too. Post-surgery, the skin is kept youthful by his own exosome-rich Morphiya serum, while hyperbaric oxygen accelerates recovery. And the innovation continues: Tiryaki will open two new centres in Japan in 2025, which will offer anti-inflammatory exosome therapies by IV infusions. Watch this space. Stem-cell assisted facelift with fat transfer from £25,500 (tunctiryaki.co.uk).

Georgios Orfaniotis

Orfaniotis is a new breed of surgeon: dynamic, forward-thinking and sharply attuned to the modern patient. And though he hails from Greece, the face- and neck-lifting maestro looks to America for inspiration: ‘In the US,’ he says, ‘they have a great support system for their patients. So that’s what I’ve invested in, too.’ (As evidenced by the mandatory pre-op consultations with a specialist nurse and a doctor; and the fact that anyone who’s booked in with him gets his personal number.) Similarly progressive are his preservation deep-plane face- and necklifts – a maximum of two per week – which are done as day cases either at the elegant Montrose clinic or at REAL in Battersea, and with post-prodecural overnight stays at One Welbeck. And of them, he says: ‘You dive deep, underneath the Superficial Musculo Aponeurotic System (SMAS), to perform all your work without separating the skin from the underlying muscle; and because there’s less dissection of the skin, there’s not only less haematoma [bleeding] but also less trauma in general.’ What’s more, his facelift patients are getting younger, with some only in their thirties. (And, interestingly, one in 10 is now male.) However, they’re not combatting ageing – ‘they’re fighting genetics’, he explains. And so his careful sculpting and tightening is renowned for diminishing heavy necks and jowls in ‘cases that are almost corrective’. Right now, he is exploring endoscopic-style surgery – which is ‘better-suited to younger people with no excess skin’. But for men, as ever, he stresses the part played by eyes in a lift, saying: ‘Too pulled, too perfect, and the result starts to look a little “surgical”.’ Still, there’s no denying the sharper jawlines that ensue. Nor the need. ‘I sympathise with my patients,’ he says, ‘because I look at myself and know that in five years’ time this neck is going to go as well!’ Deep-plane facelift from £21,000; neck-lift from £20,500 (orfaniotis.co.uk).

Marc Pacifico,

Former BAAPS president Pacifico is famed for fashioning a flawless bust – he’s a specialist in addressing tuberous breasts – but his focus is shifting upwards: face- and neck-lifts now account for nearly 50 per cent of his work. ‘We have two goals with these procedures,’ he says. ‘One, that you remain looking like “you”, so that anyone who knows you won’t suspect anything. And two, to avoid you having any sign of surgery. The ideal outcome is that the patient simply appears genetically lucky.’ He’s clearly succeeding: Londoners and the international set travel to his Purity Bridge clinic in Tunbridge Wells to avail themselves of the dazzling in-house theatre where he performs his deep-plane facelifts as day cases; or to the neighbouring McIndoe Centre in East Grinstead, where he deals with more complex matters, including neck-lifts. Regarding them, he says: ‘Whether or not a patient has an elegant neck is all down to their anatomy. However, we can address that through careful sculpting of the deep fat and glands, as well as possibly repositioning the hyoid bone [‘floating’ at the top of the windpipe] which can hang quite low and forward.’ To achieve the latter, he uses a special stitching technique to lift and push it back, to give the illusion of length. He’s a great fan of the deftly wielded scalpel: outspoken about the side effects of some non-surgical treatments – ‘used inappropriately, they can create scarring and inflammation, which makes it rather challenging to go into someone’s face years later’; and passionate about the transformational effects of more extensive surgery. Facelift from £18,000; neck-lift from £11,600 (marcpacifico.co.uk).

Eyes

Naresh Joshi

There’s no kinder man in cosmetic surgery than Joshi. For him, it’s about connecting with the human being in front of him; and he unwaveringly cares for his patients as if they’re members of his own family. ‘When you start, you think blepharoplasties are a formulaic thing,’ he muses. ‘You learn from your mentors and you execute what you’re taught. But thousands of procedures later, you realise that every patient is different. The more I do, the more I realise how nuanced it all is.’ Volume loss in the upper lid brings many to his door: ‘Over time, the fat surrounding the eyeball shifts, creating an empty pocket above the lid; so we want to reposition that fat, and restore volume to the sub-brow region.’ But while his scalpel may be one of London’s most in-demand – and his stitching the best she’s ever seen, according to a nurse who works with him at the Cromwell – he’s also startlingly intuitive. ‘Even before a patient has sat down, I know what they’re coming in for,’ he says, ‘and what they need.’ Much of this is due to the confidence he’s gained from experience – he’s been lifting lids for 30-plus years now, and has performed more blepharoplasties than anyone in the country – so you’d be well-advised to heed his advice when he gives it: ‘If I’ve said no, then please don’t go to someone else who’ll say yes for the wrong reasons.’ (Instead, send him a photograph in five years’ time and he’ll reassess.) To Joshi, ‘good cosmetic surgeries are as important as good reconstructive surgeries’. And the ones he does for his patients are ‘transformative’. Upper-lid blepharoplasty from £11,170; lower-lid blepharoplasty from £15,320 (cromwellhospital.com).

Sabrina Shah-DesaI

Shah-Desai is renowned for delicate, dexterous handiwork, which she performs in her ground-floor Harley Street HQ. Her scarless ptosissurgeries are things of beauty, and her way with a needle wipes away any signs of periorbital fatigue. However, she’s kind and caring, too, and sharply attuned to the psyche. ‘Young patients went overboard on tear trough filler in recent years and now want it dissolved,’ reports the oculoplastic surgeon, ‘while mature patients who came to the party late and are scared ofsurgery want to get everything done with injectables.’ At the moment, her Perfect Eyes clinic is seeing increasing amounts of malar oedema, an accumulation of fluid just above the cheekbones, which makes the under-eye appear waterlogged – ‘The superficial lymphatics there are valveless,’ she explains – and is putting the puffiness-prone on six-week courses of manual LPG Endermologie. As for bigger bags, she’s dissolving any existing filler, starting her clients on LPG, and then performing her signature extended lower-lid blepharoplasties. (‘They support the mid-face, give a natural-looking lift and also do away with baggy-looking under-eyes.’) If you’re still bothered by lax lids, you can always walk two floors up – to her Perfect Skin clinic – where you might benefit from a session of ‘laser-coring’, whereby her UltraClear laser removes microscopic columns of tissue, enabling the surrounding skin and underlying muscle to tighten as it heals. And whatever, thanks to her fabulous new Eye Regenerate LED Mask, no one leaves her clinic empty-handed… Scarless ptosis surgery from £4,500; LPG Endermologie, £100 per treatment; UltraClear from £750 (perfecteyesltd.com).

Luc Braquet

Elizabeth Hawkes

In her silk blouse and Hermès earrings, Hawkes might be fresh-faced, but her finger is very much on the pulse. ‘The direction of travel is definitely regenerative,’ says the oculoplastic surgeon, who consults at the Cadogan Clinic (and recently travelled to Istanbul, to train under king of fat transfer Tunç Tiryaki). Right now, she has her eye on stem cells. ‘While the patient is in surgery and under sedation, you can effectively take a little bit of fat from the outer thighs, spin it down to a liquid and purify it, then reinject the nano-fat with a cannula,’ she explains. ‘It’s so packed full of growth factors it’s essentially a “golden filler”.’ It’s an excellent adjunct to her procedures, which include upper- and lower-lid blepharoplasties and fat-grafting reversal. ‘If you inject fat too superficially around the lower cheek and you’re not deep enough on the bone, it can leave a lumpy appearance,’ she says, ‘so I lift the skin-muscle flap, exposing the orbicularis, then simply cut the fat out.’ However, to keep the ocular area fresh for longer, Hawkes looks beyond the eyes. ‘You can perform the most immaculate lower-lid blepharoplasty,’ she says, ‘but to achieve truly flawless results, you often need to address the cheek.’ (Bring on her sturdy stitching, which suspends the mid-face and orbicularis muscles, resulting in a smoother contour.) She’s a lover of systems and analysis – ensuring nothing is left to chance when you slip onto the table – so pre-surgical ultrasound is standard, while her investigations are nothing short of scrupulous. ‘The eyelids, sadly, are not forgiving,’ she continues, ‘and once the post-op puffiness has died down, even the tiniest ptosis or asymmetry will stand out. For that reason, a consultation and taking your time to decide are paramount.’ Lower-lid blepharoplasty from £7,850; lower-lid blepharoplasty with nanofat face rejuvenation from £10,450 (drelizabethhawkes.com).

Dr Maryam Zamani

The perennially chic Zamani never stops – when she’s not hosting London society in her Chelsea home, she’s concocting new formulae for her eponymous MZ Skin range – and just launched is her Microtox Tightening Eye Serum, which provides powerful, de-puffed results and superior tightening. ‘Crepey skin under the eyes is a bugbear of mine,’ she says. ‘It’s the most delicate on the body, and the thinnest, so we want to maintain it for as long as possible.’ As for knife-work, she’s renowned for tidy lid-lifting, perhaps repositioning fat to disguise hollow under-eyes (‘My patients tell me that no one ever comments on them looking tired again’) or excising a crescent of tissue from uppers: ‘They feel so much better not having that extra skin sitting on the eyelashes.’ However, she maintains that surgery is not for everyone, ‘and it’s not for young people who are concerned about lines and wrinkles – because the minute you have a scar, it ages you’. For that cohort, she’ll prescribe combination procedures at her Instagrammable clinic. Now, she’s hot on ‘stacking’ light- and laser-focused techniques: ‘Stacking revolutionises our results by combining multiple, customisable treatments that target a variety of concerns,’ she says, ‘from fine lines and pigmentation to acne, scarring and skin laxity.’ Thus, her new Filter Free Skin treatment blends Sciton’s BBL (BroadBand Light), Halo fractional laser and targeted boosters, leaving skin radiant and seemingly pore-free. The way you’ll feel if you swing by the spa at Claridge’s and take a 90-minute journey using her skin-soothing topicals and collagen-boosting LED masks, supplemented by sculpting massage. Upper-lid blepharoplasty from £9,700; Filter Free Skin from £6,600 (drmaryamzamani.com).

Noses

David Roberts

Patients love Roberts for his emphasis on safety, his solidity and his supportive demeanour. And when he’s not Down Under – the consultant ENT surgeon is exploring setting up another Nose Clinic in Melbourne – you’ll find him on Harley Street, where he sees his fair share of nasal complexity. ‘My practice was always based around revision rhinoplasties, and most of it still is,’ he says. ‘However, the primary cases can be just as challenging.’ Not to mention the ‘extra-ordinary’ level of expectation today, for which he blames social media, selfies and the smartphone lens, ‘which makes the width of the face appear greater and so doesn’t represent reality’. Healthily sceptical, he’s suspicious of trends: ‘Ultrasonic, Piezo-electric, conservation rhinoplasty… These are just tools and techniques – and we all do them – but what’s ultimately important is to tailor them to the individual.’ While his skill lies in sculpting a natural-looking nose, it’s also, critically, in preserving function: ‘So often, we see these incredibly rigid, “perfect” noses but they’re a nightmare functionally. My goal with this surgery is to preserve as normal a look and sensation as possible, so that it feels like your own nose when you’re talking or kissing, or touching it.’ Be warned, though: Roberts cautions that most take between six to nine months to return to that state. Also be wary of shopping around for cheaper and quicker alternatives: if a procedure seems too much of a good thing, it probably is. ‘We’re seeing some unfortunate outcomes as a result of cosmetic tourism,’ says the surgeon. ‘Patients are trying to find a more affordable way of doing things – which I understand – but if it goes wrong, they often don’t have any recourse to complain or access remedial work. We cannot have a situation where pursuing serious surgery is seen as akin to buying a handbag.’ Rhinoplasty from £16,000 (harleystreetnoseclinic.com).

Charles East

East’s patients span a wide range. There’s the pre-university contingent, of whom he says: ‘With women reaching nasal maturity at around 16 years old, 18 to 23 is the sweet spot for surgery.’ Then there are society’s silver swans: ‘My eldest is 87. She always hated her nose, so we lifted the tip ever so subtly.’ Whoever’s under his scalpel, he has a fierce love of noses, and champions the preservation rhinoplasty technique that he’s been finessing for the past six years. His method lessens the size without changing the unique aesthetic and ‘if the dorsal lines from the front look nice, then it’s a worthy option’. However, while ‘it’s excellent for a slightly over-projected nose, for those concerned about a hump or a bump, we need to take a more constructive approach’. Although he often reinstates support to the central pillar of the nose, using a tiny piece of cartilage taken from the septum, he cautions against both striving for symmetry – ‘I always remind my patients that the nostrils are sisters, not twins!’ – and relying too much on non-surgical techniques: ‘I wash filler out of about 20 per cent of the noses that I operate on. It has a place in post-operative refining but is sadly overused.’ Instead, he’s hot on skincare; everyone under his care is instructed to follow a six-week regime that includes a salicylic- and glycolic-acid scrub, as well as serum and retinol, to improve the texture of the skin. Ever the innovator, he’s seeing promising results with a new, absorbable stitch, which spurs post-op healing dramatically. ‘We do three to four on each side of the nose,’ he says. ‘And on closer inspection, they look like tiny pores!’ But if you’re socially anxious, they’re easily camouflaged with concealer. Preservation rhinoplasty from £16,500 (rhinoplastylondon.co.uk).

Naveen Cavale

Tucked into the railway arches of Battersea Exchange, Cavale’s private hospital REAL goes from strength to strength. What started during lockdown has grown into a centre of excellence that sees seriously sought-after practitioners – such as Duncan Atherton, Bill Townley and Yannis Alexandrides – using its three theatres. Noses, as it were, are front and centre. ‘We’re seeing a huge influx in the complex, really difficult rhinoplasties,’ says Cavale, who still gives two days a week to the NHS. ‘In fact, we’re taking on a number of septo-rhinoplasties that are still on ENT surgeons’ waiting lists – because we can do them, and we can do them efficiently.’ His skill doesn’t just lie in correcting crooked noses – for example, those that have broken and healed in a slightly wonky way – when he leans steadily on his Piezo drill (thus reducing further trauma to the bone). He’s also an ace at fixing breathing problems – and an advocate of well-planned and properly prepared-for surgery: ‘I spend a huge amount of my time trying to convince patients not to have any,’ he says. ‘After all, nature has its own plan for your nose, and we don’t always know what the end result will be.’ Post-op recovery is spurred with a flash of Sciton’s BBL laser – ‘the red light helps scars to settle beautifully’ – and everyone goes home with a self-care package comprising antibacterial Clinisept and Kelo-Cote silicone gel. Back at REAL, new specialists are set to come on board, including gynaecologists, weight-management consultants and fertility experts. Get in line... Rhinoplasty from £10,000 (realplasticsurgery.co.uk).

Dr Ayad Harb, Bicester

When it comes to non-surgical noses, Harb is a pair of safe hands. The plastic surgeon and injector is regarded for his micro-droplet technique, using filler with precision to fix nasal asymmetry or wonky tips. It’s not just those seeking a straighter bridge who benefit: ‘Post-surgical revisions are a big part of my practice,’ he says. ‘Usually, we see too much bone or cartilage has been taken out, leaving these patients with two choices: do nothing and live with a dissatisfactory nose, or go through the whole procedure again.’ His filler skills restore self-confidence as well as softness to dry, contracted scar tissue. When he’s not refining noses from his clinics in Bicester or London, Harb may be at work sharpening a slackening jawline. (‘I’m a big fan of Radiesse. It stimulates collagen, thus tightening the skin; the last thing you want is to add weight to the lower face.’) Hot off the press is his new residency at an Ascot clinic that features two operating theatres, a Pilates studio and landscaped gardens. Alongside Harb, there’s space for GPs and menopause specialists, dieticians and physiotherapists; not to mention DNA testing, IV infusions and Ayurveda. ‘It’s allowing me to explore those other aspects of living well in a more holistic manner,’ he says. ‘Because there’s much more to looking good than just injecting.’ The 3 Point Rhino from £750 (drayad.com).

Lips

Dr Rita Rakus

Rakus is the OG of the aesthetics industry, with a world-renowned clinic in Knightsbridge and a presence maintained in LA, Dubai and Monte Carlo. Her name is inscribed on the Royal Society of Medicine’s Wall of Honour, where she’s the only cosmetic surgeon to appear. But she doesn’t rest on her laurels, and is not only ferocious in the pursuit of progress but constantly striving for safer and more sustainable treatments; whether by co-founding the British College of Aesthetic Medicine (BCAM) or liaising with the world-renowned Buck Institute on advancements in anti-ageing. Now, the London Lip Queen has coined a new term: ‘The Power Lip Protocol,’ she says. ‘That’s what it’s all about right now.’ Which, more and more, means swerving filler entirely. So how does she smooth out barcode lines on the top lip? The answer is to cleverly combine Thermage FLX skin tightening and rejuvenating polynucleotide injections with some topical applications of plant-derived exosomes. To reduce inflammation, ‘We also use the EVRL laser before and after,’ she says. Rakus is hot on tackling dermal disruption elsewhere. Patients are dispatched with reparative, exosome-based EXO|E skincare products to use at home – ‘it decreases inflammation by 59 per cent’ – and her team is often to be found flashing the red-and-violet light-emitting EVRL at patients while they sit in the waiting room. (It’s been shown to sharpen neurological function, strengthen the vagus nerve and even improve digestion.) Another device that she favours is Cellution, which tackles cellulite with an arsenal of treatments: targeted serums, high-intensity focused diodes, vibration and mechanical massage. ‘In the old days, the adage was “no pain, no gain”,’ says Rakus. ‘With better machines and technology, that’s become a thing of the past.’ Power Lip Protocol from £755; Cellution from £3,000 for a course of six (drritarakus.co.uk).

Hormones

Dr Martin Galy

Co-founder of the 23MD clinic and one of Britain’s most in-demand hormone experts, Galy is busier than ever right now, splitting his time between Chelsea and Dubai – and ona mission at his Jumeirah Beach residency. ‘Unlike in the UK, public awareness of hormone replacement therapy hasn’t penetrated the Middle East,’ he says. And more’s the pity: ‘There is now data to show that women on HRT live healthier lives for seven to 10 years longer than those who are not.’ His manner is down to earth; his questions, as he peers through round-rimmed Tom Ford glasses, are insightful. And his raison d’être is to enhance the wellbeing of each of his patients by finding their unique hormonal fingerprint. But while he flies the flag for the benefits of HRT – such as enhanced brain, bone and heart health – he’s also enthused by the virtues of modern weight-loss medications. In fact, 75 per cent of those who pass through his doors are on a form of semaglutide as well as HRT. ‘But we always need to check their hormones first. In men, we don’t want to miss low testosterone; otherwise they’ll regain the weight they’ve lost with the new drugs. In younger women, we don’t want to overlook poly-cystic ovary syndrome (PCOS). And in more mature women, we need to establish where they are in their menopausal journey, so that we can support their hormones simultaneously.’ He says stable weight loss – no more than three kilos per month – is key to avoiding a drawn appearance. ‘However, patients do say it is transformative, especially if they’ve been carrying insulin resistance all of their lives. Their cravings stop, and some are turned off alcohol, but you notice the biggest difference when you speak to them. Their motivation to be back in control of their bodies shines through.’ Initial consultation from £450 (23md.co.uk).

Dr Sohère Roked

The skill of former psychiatrist Roked lies in being able to see the bigger picture, as well as understanding where the body ends and the mind begins. ‘My clientele come to see me seeking the missing piece of the puzzle,’ she explains. ‘They’re getting stuck somewhere. So a holistic, well-rounded overview is what’s needed.’ When it comes to diagnostics, Roked orders the usual bloods to determine which hormones need to be balanced and supported. ‘But we also wantto delve into your gut health, stress levels and your ability to methylate [metabolise hormones].’ Her approach is gentle and collaborative – she spreads out the many tests she might prescribe across the year, so as not to overwhelm a patient, or incorporate ashwagandha and vitamin B to calm anxiety and reduce the ‘stress hormone’ cortisol – and in the end, she says, ‘It’s also about the simple things you can do every day for free that make a big difference: like delaying your morning coffee, getting some sunlight, not checking your phone as soon as you wake up.’ Semaglutide medications, where necessary, are part of her armoury too. That’s because, she exp-lains: ‘Oestrogen dominance has a significant impact on how the body stores fat; and for those patients who are extremely overweight, the injections can be life-changing.’ However, she administers them with caution; and in lockstep with mindful nutrition, exercise and sometimes such stress-relieving therapies as tapping and emotion-focused therapy (EFT). Overall, she says: ‘It’s about finding an alternative way to look at and support a patient’s hormones. After all, modern life isn’t always conducive to optimal health.’ Initial consultation from £350(drsohereroked.co.uk).

Dr Anne Henderson

When it comes to hormonal health, Henderson is the real deal. Straight-talking and wildly knowledgeable, the consultant gynaecologist is one of a select number of British Menopause Society-accredited advanced specialists. But she’s also relatable, with a clever way of getting right to the heart of the issue. ‘When a patient comes to see me, I always ask them to describe their top five concerns,’ she explains. ‘You might have 30 menopausal symptoms, but only three or four that are really grinding your gears.’ Under her wing, hormonal support becomes a lifestyle: ‘All the studies show that you need to be on HRT for 10 years to get the true cardiac and cognitive benefits, and you won’t be on the same dose of HRT at 70 as you were in your forties.’ Her conversation ebbs and flows like her patients’ hormone levels: now she’s discussing the role of weight-loss medications, and the non-surgical interventions that truly deliver. (She’s currently seeing excellent results with the new InMode EmpowerRF, a radiofrequency-emitting probe that works to relieve vaginal atrophy and more complex vulval conditions, such as lichen sclerosus.) But Henderson is also attuned to the weightier stuff: ‘Doing the necessary gynaecological checks before you start zapping away is critical. When you’re looking at conditions that can become malignant in 10 per cent of women, you need to know what you’re staring at.’ With a second clinic coming online in Tunbridge Wells – it will offer a roster of complementary experts in women’s health and the menopause, alongside nutritionists, physiotherapists and herbalists – Henderson’s star is in the ascendant. HRT from £105; EmpowerRF from £475 (gynae-expert.co.uk).

Luc Braquet

Intimate areas

Aurora Almadori

Italian-born Almadori is a lifeline for those with trouble down below. The plastic surgeon has a special interest in sophisticated regenerative procedures. But even if it’s slightly old-fashioned, she always starts with the basics. ‘In the past,’ she explains, ‘I would show women a diagram of the vulva and explain the anatomical variations to them. But today, they say, “Yes, I know all that!” They are becoming more able to talk about these issues. Best of all, they know there’s often a solution.’ Post-partum cases make up the majority of her work – perhaps after tearing during childbirth, or to revise painful episiotomy scars – and she stresses how important their resolution is: ‘Some of these women are still young, but these conditions leave them with no sexual life and a marriage that’s breaking down. So validating their concerns is critical.’ (Her way with fat transfer adds further cushioning to the soft tissues, thus reducing friction and discomfort.) Menopausal symptoms also bring to her door women seeking relief from dryness; in her arsenal are hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers, specially designed for the area, as well as polynucleotides and platelet-rich plasma (PRP). When it comes to labiaplasties, she champions a conservative approach that restores symmetry and balance without resorting to excessive cutting. ‘Often, women think their inner labia are becoming longer when they are actually just losing volume,’ she says. ‘But the beauty of fat is that you can use it in multiple ways: as larger globules to restore the shape; as smaller particles for tinier enhancements; and as nano-fat to improve the quality of the skin.’ Meanwhile, topically applied exosomes help hasten convalescence. Fat grafting from £4,500; intimate filler from £800; labiaplasty from £4,100 (cadoganclinic.com).

Sujatha Tadiparthi

Empathetic and wonderfully down to earth, plastic surgeon Tadiparthi has two aims: to boost the confidence of the women she treats; and perhaps after childbirth, menopause or weight-loss, to help them feel comfortable in their bodies again. ‘Often, as a female surgeon, I can relate to their concerns,’ she says. ‘And for many of them, it’s about having the freedom to wear the clothes they want.’ That’s why abdominoplasties are on the rise, she reports. (‘Muscle repair makes a huge difference. And even women who haven’t had children experience skin laxity.’) Likewise, ‘auxiliary reduction’ in the area between the breasts and the underarms: ‘Even slim women can carry a little extra volume here.’ However, labiaplasties are slowly becoming her bread and butter: ‘There’s much more awareness around the procedure today,’ she says. ‘Both with younger ladies who have enlarged labia and want to wear fitted workout wear and with the cohort who have had their families and are starting to notice signs of ageing, sagging or elongation.’ Performed under local, her linear excision technique reveals a tidy, yet natural-looking result: ‘Often, there is an asymmetry,’ she explains. ‘However, we’re aiming to create a more balanced-looking labia, which means not trimming everything away.’ After four weeks, most patients are back to normal life. And three months later, with all swelling subsided, many already report enhanced intimacy with their partners. ‘It’s a simple operation but it makes a huge difference to the patient,’ Tadiparthi concludes. ‘Most say to me: “Why didn’t I do this before?”’ Auxiliary reduction from £5,500; labiaplasty from £4,950 (choiceaesthetics.uk).

Breasts

Nora Nugent

BAAPS has a new president – since she consults from Purity Bridge (the independent private clinic in Tunbridge Wells, run by her predecessor Marc Pacifico), Nugent’s appointment has kept the town firmly on the surgical map. Patients flock for an audience with this surgeon, who excels in matters of female anatomy: from age-appropriate augmentations to breast reductions. ‘Many of these ladies have experienced pregnancies, shifts in weight or menopausal change,’ she says, ‘and their breasts change throughout their lifetime, too.’ However, her tour de force is restoring balance to tuberous breasts. ‘As a woman, you either have tuberous breasts or you don’t. And because this can present aesthetically as mild asymmetry, a slight popping around the nipple or a less rounded appearance to the lower pole [the portion below the nipple], the ways in which we can treat it differ.’ Anatomical implants come into their own for the latter cohort, as ‘their slight pear-shape fills out the lower pole nicely’; while a fabulous adjunct can be fat transfer, ‘to supplement volume, in combination with internal repositioning of the tissue’. And once their breasts have been balanced, many clients return years later to address lax tummies with some stealthy liposuction, for which they’re well-briefed: examination complete, they can expect to stand in front of the mirror, as Nugent shows exactly where their scars will lie. (For optimal healing, she advocates post-op manual lymphatic drainage, topped up with vitamins C and E, magnesium and selenium.) But what truly sets her apart is her human approach and her unwavering emphasis on best practice. ‘If researched properly, taken seriously and done in partnership with a reputable surgeon and facility, then surgery can have a transformational result,’ she says. ‘Not just on self-confidence, but on one’s quality of life.’ Mastopexy tuberous breast augmentation from £8,930; breast reduction from £8,820 (noranugent.co.uk).

Douglas McGeorge

As well as being a loyal contributor to the King’s Trust – the Chester-based surgeon was made an MBE in 2018 – McGeorge has been on the BAAPS council for more than 25 years; back in the day (2006 to 2008, to be precise) he was its president. Academia and affiliations aside, heis an intuitive practitioner, keenly aware of his patients’ state of mind. ‘Breast surgery can have a profound effect on one’s quality of life,’ he says. ‘But often, it comes down to treating the psyche.’ (If you make someone feel better mentally, it can improve their physical symptoms.) Whether he’s reducing a weighty bosom or performing an augmentation on someone who has long been insecure about their smaller cup-size, he says the effect is surprisingly similar: ‘These women stand up straighter and their bodies feel better to them. Even introverted patients become more confident.’ His clients travel from near and far – ‘I’m blessed with a lot who come back “into the fold”, some over three generations’ – and while Zoom consultations are more convenient for out-of-towners, he always insists on at least one face-to-face meet before theatre. (‘Until you see and feel the tissues, you can’t get a truly definite answer with regards to the appropriate technique.) Slimming GLP-1 agonist medications are driving a surge in uplifts, he reports: ‘They empty the breast envelope, so everything sags.’ However, when it comes to augmentations, his method is simple: ‘You see what the patient has to begin with, you determine what they’re looking for, then you find the implant that sits perfectly on the breast wall.’ Above all, he counsels a mindful approach to surgery ‘because recovery is the real journey; and for that to go smoothly, you need to ensure you go to the right person to start with’. Breast augmentation from £7,303; breast reduction from £9,085 (aestheticplasticsurgeons.org).

Jacqueline Lewis

Lewis is a surgeon’s surgeon: likeable, quick to laugh but serious about getting the best from breasts. When it comes to augmentations, the ones she does are 50/50 splits between implants and composite procedures that combine the former with cushioning fat transfer, which ‘allows more versatility’, and she’s now been repurposing natural resources with aplomb for more than 20 years. ‘I started because I had a lady who’d experienced a failed reconstruction and needed to have her implants removed,’ she says. ‘When I found a way to graft fat into the breast, I was astounded that you could create such an elegant end result by simply using what was free.’ Patients are asked to send in selfies ahead of time and are then given Crisalix scans, which enable Lewis to play around (vir-tually) with different-sized implants. So, every treatment is tailored to the individual. As she explains: ‘Very commonly, I see women who have finished their families; so they have empty breasts, lax skin, no volume and need a masto-pexy. However, not everyone is prepared to live with the resulting scars, or to risk the loss of sensation. So we’ll go for an initial breast augmentation with some fat transfer, and revisit uplifts at a later date.’ Breast surgery is a long game, she says, and ‘patients should expect continuous change’. What’s more, remember ‘it takes three months for the post-op swelling to settle’, so ‘absolutely do not spend money on expensive lingerie until then’! Breast augmentation from £8,000; composite breast augmentation from £10,600 (drjacquelinelewis.com).

Hazim Sadideen

An alumnus of Harvard, Oxford and King’s College London, Sadideen is wildly academic. But he’s also kind, quick to put patients at ease and enthusiastic about breaking new ground in cosmetic surgery. ‘If we only stick to the old ways, we run the risk of going stale,’ he explains. ‘But when we innovate with technique, pre-operative preparations, scar-care and the patient journey, the combination adds up to more favourable outcomes.’ Case in point, his signature StemLift: a single-stage procedure to the breast that blends fat with stem cells, to deliver natural results, improved skin quality and longer-lasting effects. ‘Many of my patients are thin and athletic,’ explains the Chelsea-based surgeon. ‘So even with grafting, we need to enrich the tissues with stem cells, in order to amplify the fat’s survival rate.’ Thus he takes approximately 400ml of fat from the body, plus an extra 50ml from which he extracts the cells used to enrich it, and creates a supercharged solution that gives just the right amount of volume while rejuvenating crepey skin. He’s also hot on methods of enhancing results, among them hyperbaric oxygen therapy and beneficial nutrition – ‘plenty of cashews, blueberries and walnuts. We need to feed the fat!’ – and he’s a true consolation when previous fat transfer has gone awry. ‘Often,’ he says, ‘it’s due to the wrong type of fat being used or the placement being too superficial, resulting in a lumpy appearance.’ (Sadideen performs an ultrasound scan before draining fat necrosis and massaging the area; and if it still won’t settle, he will proceed to surgical removal.) Fat aside, he champions preservation in breast augmentations: using minimal cutting, leaving the smallest scars and employing a Keller Funnel device, which slides implants into prepared pockets with greater ease than traditional methods. ‘With less disruption, comes less pain. And far greater satisfaction.’ Fat transfer to breasts from £12,000; StemLift from £17,000 (drhazlondon.com).

Theodore Nanidis

Seventeen years a consultant, Greek-born Nanidis might be suave, but he’s also sage. ‘There’s no substitute for experience and the understanding that comes with it,’ says the breast specialist, who heads up the surgical unit at the gleaming Galen Clinic. (Post-op cases can spend the night at the neighbouring King Edward VII Hospital, should they choose: ‘It gives them reassurance if they need nursing care or are nervous about dressings and medication.’) A deep thinker, he talks at length about the final aesthetics of augmentation and has devised an algorithm to empower patients in consultations: ‘After taking into account the nipple and glandular positions, as well as skin excess, I ask women to assess their own breasts and together we decide on the best approach.’ While full upper poles seem to be a modern-day fixation, he says: ‘The most natural-looking breasts should have ones that slope gently, with a hint of plumpness.’ That’s exactly what’s delivered by Motiva implants, which are softer and smoother than the market average, ‘though you need to use them appropriately, and that means making very small incisions so they fit snugly inside, before reinforcing with deep stitches’. Nanidis is also a fan of fat transfer and insists that slim, post-partum women are excellent candidates for his treatment: finding secret stores in the back’s lumbar flap or in the inner thighs. He cautions that ‘it’s never a one-off and, unlike implants, won’t enhance the shape’. However, ‘when done well, it can rejuvenate the breasts, and even raise the nipples slightly. After all, patients today are becoming ever-more fastidious; and nipple positioning is the first thing they notice.’ Breast augmentation from £2,800; fat transfer from £1,800 (tnplasticsurgeon.co.uk).

Luc Braquet

Bodies

William Van Niekerk

A former wing commander in the Royal Air Force, Van Niekerk is no stranger to military operations – he spent time in Afghanistan, where he treated injuries on the frontline – and his surgeries exhibit the same discipline. For 15 years, he’s been perfecting his lipo abdominoplasty, a Brazilian twist that preserves the blood supply to the skin, allowing for more aggressive suction. ‘The lipo serves two purposes,’ explains the South African consultant, who performs between 60 and 80 procedures a year. ‘It sculpts and contours the body. But it also un-splints the skin from the underlying muscle, doing away with the need to dissect the tissues, and therefore greatly reducing such complications as fluid collection.’ It’s this level of expertise that has post-weight-loss patients beating a path to his Cadogan Clinic consulting room. (‘Loose skin is worse than excess fat, many people say that their journey is not complete until they’ve had it removed.’) New mothers come too, because his lifts tighten slackened stomachs like a dream, while simultaneously smoothing tethered C-section scars: ‘Most women think they need scar revision,’ says Van Niekerk. ‘But that “lip” above their incision is caused by loose skin, so what they actually need is a lift.’ Kind and caring, he insists such surgery is ‘reconstructive, and should only be undertaken if it can create a meaningful difference’. However, if approached with care and done well, ‘it can be life-changing’. Brazilian abdominoplasty from £13,900 (cadoganclinic.com).

Raj Ragoowansi

Despite more than 20 years in practice, Ragoowansi shows no signs of slowing. When he’s not tending to the needs of Middle Eastern royals, the Harvard-educated surgeon can be found performing his stealthy breast- and body-focused surgeries at both St John & St Elizabeth and the Weymouth. Right now, he’s receiving a steady stream of requests for such secondary breast work as replacing implants – ‘Although many women are choosing to forgo implants entirely this time, instead opting for fat transfer,’ says the doctor. But he’s seeing an uptick in another group, too: ‘I’ve consulted more men this year than in my entire career. Most are coming to sort out excess skin, as a result of their Ozempic regimes.’ Others cite ‘finding they can’t get their belts comfortably around their waists, or they don’t want to go swimming’ as catalysts for them to sign up to his signature abdominoplasties. (He’ll excise excess tissue neatly, often doing away with stretch marks simultaneously, before referring patients for non-surgical skin tightening.) Gynecomastia-style surgeries are also on the rise – ‘though it’s not breast tissue in these men, just skin’, which he removes around the areola, then follows up with careful liposuction. Massage, silicone tape and laser all aid recovery, as do nurse Jacquie’s home visits; to high-net-worth patients, anyway. Breast augmentation with fat transfer from £8,500; male abdominoplasty from £10,500 (millimetreperfect.co.uk).

Roy Ng

Having been nipping and tucking for nigh-on 20 years, most of Ng’s patients find him through word-of-mouth. He’s a stickler for tried-and-tested techniques: ‘Technological innovations come and sometimes go, so it’s important not to abandon the approaches that have worked well for you over the decades.’ The skill of this specialist in post-weight-loss surgeries lies not only in elegantly doing away with excess skin on the body, arms and thighs but in counselling his patients so that they can navigate the road ahead. Many seek him out following a gastric sleeve or bypass. Popular among his male patients are the reduction of gynecomastia, caused by excess breast tissue, and buttock lifts; with his female cohort, the discussion might also delve into the role of implants, to replace lost volume. The Harley Street surgeon maintains it’s the ‘tiny touches that give good results’: which means meticulous stitching, scrupulous positioning of scars and gentle hand-holding. His surgeries are not ‘one and done’: ‘They’re long-term relationships. However, most post-op patients are so disciplined that they never go back to their old habits. They’re happy and highly motivated, and that’s so gratifying to see.’ Body lift from £12,500 (lips1.co.uk).

Professor Iain Whitaker

Cardiff’s most sought-after surgeon is now to be found at the Cadogan Clinic in Chelsea. His scalpel is seeing more action than ever: ‘There’s a huge demand in the capital for mummy make-overs,’ explains the body specialist. ‘These women have lost their confidence and, with their families complete, they want to get back to feeling like their former selves.’ These may combine an uplift and petite implants – ‘with long-term gravity, larger ones will lead to breasts dropping back to their former positions’ – as well as a neat trimming of tissue from the stomach, and almost always muscle-repair to the abdomen: ‘Even if it doesn’t look noticeably split, most post-partum patients have some degree of diastasis; bringing the muscles back together really optimises the anatomy.’ With careful liposuction added in, the most androgynous body can look noticeably more feminine – which is why the ‘Whitaker Waist’ has become so famous. His emphasis on fashioning a tidy tummy-button brings a whole new meaning to navel gazing: ‘Before babies, it’s vertical, whereas it takes on a more horizontal appearance afterwards.’ Above all, he’s concerned about safety, leading the charge against dangerous body contouring and penning the BAAPS guidelines on abdominoplasty. Regarding the rise in cosmetic tourism, ‘although we do see some good results, the complication rate is significantly higher in patients who have travelled abroad, while the follow-up is non-existent’. And as he says: ‘At the end of the day, you don’t want to roll the dice with your health.’ Mummy Makeover from £14,000 (iainwhitaker.com).

Dr Galyna Selezneva

‘Back in the 1990s, although socialites had facelifts, they’d hide their bodies away,’ says Selezneva, who can be found in her new clinic at Mayfair club Allbright. ‘But today we’re becoming bolder. Socially and professionally, we’re more in demand. So no wonder we don’t want to conceal ourselves beneath turtlenecks and pashminas!’ The psychiatrist turned body sculptor knows a thing or two about wanting to regain control of one’s physique – ‘I’ve been through all the stages: weight loss, pregnancy, trying to regain a sense of self, post-partum’ – and she’s passionate about making her patients feel understood. Her polynucleotides are flying; especially to those concerned with the under-arm region, where Selezneva reconditions the skin with a course of Plinest, followed by a round of skin-tightening Sofwave. (‘This area is a magnet for crepey skin and once laxity sets in, even women who have great triceps stop going sleeveless.’) As for legs, she jokes: ‘My patients are the “Silver Tsunami” – which means golfing and short skirts – so we work to prepare them not for bikini-wearing but for the sporting season.’ Her Thermage FLX radiofrequency lifts and tightens looseness above the knees beautifully; and thighs prone to dimpling do well with her Cellution treatment, which breaks down stubborn cellulite by mechanical massage and suction, light-emitting diodes and caffeine-rich serums. But don’t forget down below. ‘Safe-guarding your intimate health is vital,’ says the doctor, who works to restore form and function with such devices as Emsella and Exion, respectively to strengthen the pelvic floor and to improve vaginal atrophy while banishing dryness. ‘These treatments,’ Selezneva says, ‘are no longer just the domain of the hyper-body-conscious woman.’ Polynucleotides (Croma and Plinest) from £800; Cellution from £2,500; Thermage FLX from £2,400 (drgalyna.com).

Veins

Professor Mark Whiteley

Never was there a more considerate surgeon than Whiteley, whose operation encompassesan HQ in Guildford, a clinic in London and various outposts in major British cities. But the venous expert and author of leading publications on the subject is also something of adisruptor. He was the first to prove that ‘stripping’ doesn’t work on varicosity: ‘Forty-seven per cent of the patients we see are coming because of poor treatment elsewhere. Often, the perforators simply haven’t been addressed, so the underlying cause persists and the condition comes back.’ He also led the charge against pelvic congestion syndrome (PCS); and new this year is a dedicated Female Pelvic Pain Unit at his London clinic, spearheaded by consultant gynaecologist Sophie Strong. But Whiteley reports that men are becoming more conscious of their veins, too, with brown stains and eczema on the legs – caused by stagnant blood, which leads to chronic inflammation – bringing many to his door to have faulty vessels sealed with foam sclerotherapy, performed under local anaesthetic. Meanwhile, visible veins in the forehead or temples bring him a glittering crowd – ‘I treated a female film star recently; on the big screen, even the tiniest pulsation or wriggly, superficial artery can be a distraction’ – and he’s one of only two surgeons in the world to deal with them using his US-patented endo-venous laser technique. Nor does he stand still: he also has in the works an at-home diagnostic to enable people to ascertain their risk of venous disease without setting foot in a clinic. ‘We want to empower people to understand their body better,’ he says. Foam Schlerotherapy from £1,120; EndoVenous laser ablation from £2,600; Sonovein from £2,600 (thewhiteleyclinic.co.uk

Injectors

Dr Suha Kersh

Catch her while you can: the in-demand Kersh splits her time between her Chelsea flagship and her Jumeirah Beach clinic in Dubai; and thanks to an approach that blends artistry and a deep understanding of the human psyche, she’s never been more relevant. ‘Regenerative medicine is taking over,’ says the injector, elegant in Chanel slingbacks. ‘Before, it was all about fillers and toxins. Now we have tools that heal, refresh and rejuvenate the skin simultaneously, and the results are incredible.’ The foundation of her work is an annual filler appointment when she builds on the bone, preferring to place product in the lateral face, and even back in the hairline: ‘Remember, you’re also losing volume in the skull.’ As for maintenance, that comes in the form of polynucleotides, collagen-stimulating radiofrequency and muscle-toning Emface; and this method means not only that the filler hangs around longer but ‘performs better over time’. (Bio-identical hormone replacement therapy downstairs with Dr Galy will also help, as oestrogen has a positive effect on collagen stores.) Kersh is passionate about celebrating the individual: ‘My mantra has always been to make you look the best you can without changing, fundamentally, how you look; and a lot of that is achieved through skin health.’ Which explains her championing of polynucleotides delivered by needle ‘for extra collagen stimulation’ to leave the skin looking filter-perfect and dewy, as well as fading old acne scars. And, says the doctor: ‘It’s a more responsible way to treat the patient. We can regenerate fat and bone; and we can tighten and contour – we don’t have to choose one or the other. It’s about integrating everything.’ Filler from £750; polynucleotides from £750; Emface from £750 (23md.co.uk).

Dr Wassim Taktouk

Be they Knightsbridge grandes dames or Netflix stars, Taktouk is the name on their lips; and not just for the reasons you’d expect. For a start, he’s the funniest injector you’ll ever see on social media. And add to that his global training academy – whose ranks have recently been joined by a college in Miami – as well as his chic, Sloane Street clinic, hidden behind an Hermès-orange door, which heaves with some of the most forward-thinking practitioners in town (such as K-beauty aficionado Dr Christine Hall and queen of skin tightening Nadia Aminian). But stardust aside, Taktouk is one of the most down-to-earth doctors you’ll meet; and philosophical with it. ‘The stress of world events is taking its toll,’ he says, ‘resulting in lacklustre complexions and raised cortisol levels that can be problematic for skin conditions. Now more than ever, my focus is on delivering an experience that involves minimal intervention while delivering maximum results.’ Yes, he has a hi-tech ‘Face Menu’ that offers everything from Ameela polynucleotides and Teoxane skin boosters to bio-stimulators such as Sculptra. But when it comes to hyaluronic acid (HA), ‘It’s about “luxury filler” now,’ he says. ‘In other words, smaller amounts, which are undetectable.’ He is also a stickler for integrated skincare – little wonder he’s a global ambassador for SkinCeuticals – and, at the moment, he’s seeing a seismic shift in the softness of his patients’ skin, thanks to the brand’s new HA intensifier Multi-Glycan: ‘It contains 20 per cent more Pro-Xylane than the original, so it stimulates even greater amounts of hyaluronic acid.’ Throw in a round of BTL Exion radiofrequency – proven to upregulate the body’s own production of HA, it feels like a hot-stone massage – and you’ll need less filler still. Clever. Filler from £595; BTL Exion from £450 (drwassimtaktouk.com).

Dr Aggie Zatonska

Surrey’s most sought-after injector has a recently revamped clinic, and the Wentworth crowd can’t line up fast enough. But it’s not just that her elegant, Fornasetti-papered space has doubled in size, with suites dedicated to myriad hi-tech devices; or her discreet prep room where patients recline on spa chairs while their numbing cream gets to work. ‘These days,’ says Zatonska, ‘I’m concentrating on “proactive ageing” [managing the process confidently], which means pre-conditioning the skin with products that regenerate it – such as Plinest polynucleotides or Sofwave ultrasound – before we go in with the filler.’ A former ENT surgeon, she’s meticulous not only about quality but quantity: ‘Rarely do I use more than 1ml of filler per patient per year. However, for those who present with hollow temples or a weak chin, nothing else works quite as beautifully.’ And though she injects deep, on the bone, and ‘nowhere near the areas that cause so-called “pillow face”’, she’s also attuned to change elsewhere: ‘I’m really focused on educating patients about the face’s fat pads, which shrink with age and contribute to a loss of structural support.’ New to her toolbox is adipose tissue-boosting Structura, which she sneaks under the cheekbone with a cannula, dispensing tiny amounts in front of the ear and along to the jawline. (‘The areas at the sides that patients pull up when they show me how they want to look!’) But she’s also on a mission to improve her clients’ overall wellbeing, so cue a dedicated suite for IV drips and neuro-cosmetic-powered skincare; as well as LPG Endermologie, which ‘improves the appearance of the body, gives better sleep and reduces stress’. In summary? ‘It’s about fusing physical health with mental wellbeing. And always underlining that connection between the two’. Filler from £550; LPG Endermologie from £995 (atelier.clinic).

Dr Yusra Al-Mukhtar

Dressed in jewel tones and radiating calm and confidence, Al-Mukhtar makes empowering company when you’re in her chair. Motivational, too. ‘Longevity has always been at the forefront of my mind,’ says the dental surgeon and injector, who was named Best Aesthetics Practitioner in the UK and Ireland at the last Aesthetics Awards. ‘Modern medicine means we’re living longer, but we also need to take into account how much of life is spent in a positive “healthspan”.’ Splitting her time between Harley Street and the beaches of Blundellsands in Merseyside – where her flagship clinic encompasses designated suites in which to perfect your skin, smile, body, facial architecture and wellbeing – she’s rigorous about safety, products that are backed by science and the emotional health of those in her care. ‘I’ve been there as my patients have had their families. I’ve held their hands as they’ve gone through divorces, and weathered menopausal change. There’s a new acceptance that aesthetics is rooted in wellness, not vanity,’ says Al-Mukhtar, who does flawless work with collagen stimulators such as Sculptra – ‘It gives the glow, but also has the most robust data behind it – and polynucleotides.’ (She’s a fan of Plinest, which uses trout DNA to repair and rejuvenate the skin.) But balancing the face and its features is where she truly shines: ‘Many patients complain that they look tired, that they feel like they’re ageing, or that they don’t like their profile but don’t know why,’ she continues. And that’s when she may perform one of the non-surgical rhino-plasties for which she’s famed, using Restylane filler – which mimics bone – to straighten and lift the nose, so that it sits better on the face. However, she says, though filler will still add volume, it may also improve shape. ‘And these treatments should only ever be enhancing beauty, not detracting from it.’ Non-surgical rhinoplasty from £765 (dryusra.com).

Dr Alexis Granite

In her kaleidoscopic wardrobe, Granite is joy personified. And Joonbyrd, her innovative range of skin serums, lotions and scrubs – with a new haircare line in the works – delivers more of the same. Dual-certified in the US and UK, the beauty editors’ go-to dermatologist sees her fair share of perimenopausal hair loss: ‘We want to rule out any deficiencies, then hold onto every strand possible. Perhaps through PRP or such medications as spironolactone, oral Finasteride or topical Minoxidil.’ And she says perioral dermatitis is on the rise, too: ‘It’s an epidemic right now; and predominantly, it’s young women who suffer the most.’ As for the causes: ‘There are definitely hormonal and stress-driven components, but I think it’s also about the skin barrier.’ So Granite strips back your regime to a simple cleanser, a light moisturiser and a mineral SPF, claiming: ‘You want to take a break from the active ingredients.’ A dermatopathologist (someone who specialises in identifying skin diseases) has now joined her team, bringing their number to three; and as her clients mature, so does her approach: ‘I’m slowly seeing my patients age, and reach that middle zone between non-surgical and surgical interventions. But you can get into a funny place with aesthetics here. You need to accept the signs of ageing and strive for small improvements, rather than try to erase them entirely.’ That means polynucleotides are flying, ‘especially in combination with Morpheus8, which is fantastic for rejuvenating crepey skin around the eyes’; as is face-firming Ultherapy, which has become less painful and time-consuming with developments in its technology. ‘When you get to a certain age, you need to be a bit more judicious with the toxin and the filler,’ says Granite. ‘Above all, you need to focus on the quality of the skin.’ Dermatology consultation from £300; Ultherapy from £1,400 (dralexisgranite.com).

Dr Nina Bal

One of the best-dressed women in aesthetics – catch the glamorous Italian at play in her catwalk Prada – Bal is also open, warm and deeply caring about those under her wing. (Katherine Ryan and many TV personalities rely on her to keep their faces paparazzi-ready.) And now she has a chic new clinic in South Kensington, which hums with futuristic gadgetry. Take her Lutronic LaseMD Ultra, which gives a megawatt pre-event glow with zero downtime, or can be dialled up to deal with pigmentation. (‘It’s like retinol on steroids!’) Or her Endolift device, which channels tightening laser energy under the skin by means of a micro-optical fibre. Recommending a session with this every 18 months, she says: ‘It’s amazing on patients who are noticing lower-face laxity but haven’t yet had muscle-drop. It defines the profile and almost “shrinks” that area, so you need less filler as a result.’ Bal’s background is in dentistry, so she also gives excellent advice on balancing the chin and jaw, explaining: ‘No one comes in asking for chin filler to increase projection; they just say they don’t like their profile. However, a bit of filler here can conceal a weak chin, and enhancing the mandible’s angle can really help to pin the face back at the corners.’ As for good skincare, it’s non-negotiable with her: patients are put on a regime that might incorporate some AlumierMD, Skinbetter Science or Obagi. And so are in-clinic facials, among them the highly rated iS Clinical Fire & Ice, which is suitable for pregnant and breastfeeding women. Bal tests all her remedies on herself and says: ‘If I see results, I go for it. But giving options to patients is critical. That’s how you deliver an honest and appropriate treatment.’ Endolift from £3,900; filler from £635 (facialsculpting.co.uk).

Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme

Aesthetic doctor Ejikeme is a poster girl for great skin, and little wonder she’s been singled out for collaborations with such brands as La Mer and L’Oréal. But there’s much more toher than creating flawless complexions. ‘We’ve always aimed for a whole-body approach,’ she says. ‘I also want to figure out what’s happening inside, to your hormones, to your overall health. After all, how you feel internally is reflected on the outside.’ Right now, she’s seeing a new wave of thirtysomethings, because ‘this is when the skin changes and patients start seeking treatments that work on a deeper level’. (Hence her new Exciplex 308 nanometer laser, which softens even the most stubborn sun damage, age spots and melasma.) But if ‘pigmentation is the number-one skin concern globally – and the biggest determinant of age – on the flip side, the clear, luminous variety is timeless and transcends ethnicity and geography’. And while injectables remain part of her arsenal, ‘It’s not about contouring, or addressing the lips or cheeks in isolation. My patients don’t want the tight, “reflective forehead” look; they want great skin and faces that look harmonious.’ Achieving that might entail hyaluronic acid filler at a deeper level than usual, to support the bone; an energy-based device for strategic lifting; and a microneedled smattering of polynucleotides or exosomes as a final flourish. But don’t leave just yet: Ejikeme’s Adonia Medical Clinic has been expanding rapidly of late, and now offers a new dermatologist, as well as HRT consultations, blood screenings and support with everything from hair loss to perimenopause. ‘We grow with patients: through their pregnancies, their child-raising years and then the menopause,’ she says. ‘Building that long-term relationship is key.’ Filler from £600; polynucleotides from £500(adoniamedicalclinic.co.uk).

MISS Jonquille Chantrey, Alderley Edge

‘My aim now is ultra-precision,’ says One Aesthetics Studio founder Chantrey, who is often to be found lecturing on an international stage. ‘That means defining my work with each patient; asking what they want to achieve and helping them do so in the most strategic way possible.’ The former surgeon has clocked up more than 70,000 procedures to date: her focus on personalised treatments reflecting a blend of artistry, intuition and scientific understanding of facial anatomy. ‘I’ve done a lot of deep-diving recently on what individuality actually means,’ she says. ‘Doing so means I know where the patient has come from – physically and internally – and allows me to help them become the truest, most authentic version of themselves.’ Consultations with the glamorous injector feel collaborative, with Chantrey carefully considering both the patient’s history and their own interpretation of what they think ‘normal’ means. (‘This is always different, as it’s influenced by cultural imagery, background and expectations.’) And sometimes, she’ll take a ruler or measuring tool to explain the role of proportion and how artfully placed injectables can strengthen, or harmonise, natural features. ‘It’s all about understanding the landscape of the face,’ she continues, ‘and where products fit within that.’ Treatment might include filler – ‘I always look to the bony scaffolding as my first point, everything else is just drapery’ – along with PRP and radiofrequency-assisted microneedling. (‘Patients love it and there is barely any downtime.’) Of the results at her clinic she says: ‘It’s not about restoring volume to soft tissues, unless there’s been extreme weight loss. It’s about light, natural change that respects the person’s face and their personal journey. No one else should know they’ve had work done. But everyone should notice the difference.’ Filler from £450; radiofrequency-assisted microneedling from £250 (doctorjonquillechantrey.com).

Dr Catharine Denning, Sussex

Fresh-faced Denning has a knack for making people feel comfortable. ‘Our treatments bringso much value to patients,’ she says. ‘They choose to be here and they leave happy.’ Consequently, business is booming both at her Marylebone clinic and her recently unveiled outpost in Heathfield, Sussex, itself a vision of colour pops, prints and cosy furnishings. Injectables are her bread and butter, be it artfully placed filler, collagen-stimulating Sculptra – which is ‘fantastic for skin quality and tightening’ – or longevity-focused toxins. However, she’s also seeing a shift towards such restorative treatments as Sciton’s Heroic device and the Moxie laser: ‘With time, texture starts to let the game down. And most likely, it’s due to too many years on boats inSt Tropez!’ With the bulk of her clients being ‘partners of law firms, CEOs and business founders with packed schedules’, her approach is to deliver maximum results in minimum time. But she also wants to ensure their appearances reflect how they feel inside: ‘When you’re the only female director in the boardroom, an executive edge is required,’ she says. ‘You don’t want people second guessing your abilities because you look tired. My aim is to make you appear driven and more energised.’ Filler from £400; Sculptra from £500; Sciton Heroic from £600 (maryleboneskin.co.uk).

Dr Sindhu Siddiqi

Subtle and soft, Dr Siddiqi’s results draw a style-conscious crowd, as well as those from the worlds of fashion and media; all seeking a shapelier pout, a smoother jawline or flawless tear troughs. ‘However, it all starts with that initial consultation,’ she says. She might deploy ultrasound – ‘to check the underlying vessels, thus avoiding danger zones’. (Hyaluronic acid-based Restylane is her filler of choice, while Kysse gives fabulous hydration and shape to cupid’s bows.) And though she’s smart and authoritative, she’s also reassuring company if you’re a nervous type. Ask about her super-strong Korean numbing cream, which helps take the sting out of dark-circle-reducing polynucleotides, dewiness-enhancing skinboosters and lip-finessing fillers – she might recommend arnica tablets prior to treatment, if potential bruising is a cause for concern – and marvel at her way with a facial cannula, which restores freshness and vitality while smoothing naso-labial folds and marionette lines. However, for Siddiqi, lips are often the icing on the cake.‘It’s like designing a house,’ she says. ‘The lips are the final touch. Like adding a throw or cushions.’ Filler from £500; lip filler from £475 (nofilterclinic.com).

Dr Matthew Jarvie-Thomas

Jarvie-Thomas is a busy man. Fast becoming a favourite in rural Buckinghamshire – the injector splits his time between the Cosmetic Skin Clinics in Stokes Poges and Harley Street. Yet he remains calm and personable, and with a knack of putting even anxious first-timers at ease. Perhaps that’s because his approach to injectables is not only intelligent but conservative. ‘The whole trend of patients wanting to dissolve their filler and turn their backs on hyaluronic acid, we’ve not seen that,’ he says. ‘I still do a lot of filler; and when done judiciously, it absolutely has its place.’ For him, biostimulation is the biggest change afoot, and he is takingproduct blending to the next level. ‘Instead of diluting collagen-stimulators such as Radiesse with water, I use hyaluronic acid or even polynucleotides,’ he says. ‘And we can now use them on the décolletage, where they’re great for crepey or sun-damaged skin.’ Meanwhile, he’s administering polynucleotides on repeat, and no wonder. ‘Previously, a patient needed to have convincing volume loss in the tear-troughs to be able to use filler. But these don’t have that requirement, and they work really well on dark circles, fine lines and even puffiness.’ That’s not to say some of the longer-standing treatments don’t get a look-in; he’s leading the resurgence in such devicesas skin-firming Thermage, for example. Not to mention Tixel (a tiny metal plate heated to 400 degrees, which is applied to the skin around the eyes for milliseconds to give a very controlled burn). ‘There’s five to seven days of crusting, redness and general downtime with it,’ he says. ‘But after two to three sessions, the upper- and lower-lids are distinctly tighter.’ And if his nifty work doesn’t do the trick, thanks to a partnership with The Private Clinic, he has a Rolodex of excellent surgeons ready and waiting… Dermal fillers from £585; polynucleotides from £450 (cosmeticskinclinic.com).

Regenerative aesthetics

Dr Anna Marie Olsen

Doctors up and down Harley Street will talk up their tailored approach, but Olsen’s protocols go way beyond bespoke. She’s couturier to the top one per cent, a jet-setting cohort that includes global CEOs, catwalk models, fashion dignitaries and big names from the performing arts; and when she’s not in a white coat, you’ll find the whip-smart physician flitting between high-society gatherings in the latest Dolce. Fluent in Italian, Greek and French, she is quite the academic as well. An honorary professor at University College London and the National University of Singapore, she also heads up research and development for Colgate-Palmolive – which means her methods are at the sharp end. (‘I describe it as bringing regenerative science from the lab to the clinic,’ says the Athens-born doctor, who uses DNA testing to determine not only what supplements a patient genuinely needs but what their skin requires at a cellular level.) Her findings enable her toconcoct potent ‘bespoke’ cosmeceutical serums unique to each patient, which are applied on-site and followed up with an energy-based device or laser; and meticulous planning is standard, with procedures performed in sync with the season, to ensure freshness for Fashion Week. These include the Baby Face, which comprises up to five energy-based treatments along with an application of a supercharged serum spun down from such autologous sources as blood, tissue and fat. And solutions to optimise the follicles are on the menu, too. ‘Many patients are on glucagon-like peptide-1 [GLP-1, which regulates appetite] so their hair needs additional support,’ says Olsen, who uses a special device to create micro-channels in the scalp, rendering injections obsolete. But don’t go without considering her Korean laser for lips, which amplifies their natural colour: ‘It creates cellular-level peeling, so the skin that comes through is a brighter red and more vascularised.’ Just the ticket for those close-ups. Prices on application (drolsenclinic.com).

Dr Sophie Shotter

With her unwavering focus on the future, Shotter continues to push boundaries. (Cue her podcast, which explores everything from gut health to psychedelics.) And right now, the Kent-based injector has new fixations. As she explains: ‘We now know that older skin releases inflammatory mediators that age our heart and brain – in other words, healthy skin can genuinely impact our overall internal health – and with the bad press around dermal fillers in the current landscape, we’re seeing a huge movement towards the more regenerative procedures.’ Her latest launch is a PRP filler, based on a sample of the client’s blood spun down in a centrifuge – to separate platelet-rich plasma from the ‘poor’ stuff – then mixed with a protein and gently heated. ‘Ultimately,’ says Shotter, ‘you end up with an injectable gel that is, ml for ml, less volumising than hyaluronic acid, but with all the added benefits of the growth factors.’ Two sessions, eight weeks apart, are recommended; but hers is also an intelligent approach, which means she loves nothing more than layering modalities for supercharged results. Her new Retexture and Rejuvenate treatment, for example, blends PRP filler with skin-tightening Sofwave, a blast of resurfacing laser and a radiance-boosting peel, for a face that looks like yours but better. And her fan-base raves about her new collagen stimulator using spherical particles – Juläine – which obviates the need for at-home massage and reduces complications. ‘It’s brilliant for patients who have lost facial volume,’ says Shotter, ‘though I’d still restore shape with hyaluronic acid afterwards.’ Regenerative procedures may have the upper hand, she continues: ‘But the pendulum will swing part-way back when people realise that none of these things truly replace HA. Rather they all work beautifully alongside it, so long as you use a little bit of everything.’ Filler from £2,500; Juläine from £750 (drsophieshotter.com).

Dr Selena Langdon

The great and the good of Berkshire have been traversing the county to see Langdon since she opened shop there nearly a decade ago. Warm, an easy conversationalist and non-judgemental, she feels like an old friend; and as a surgeon and mother, she has seen it all. Her expertise derives from road-testing myriad devices over the years, and watching trends come and go; and as she says, ‘No one talks about it anymore but, appropriately used, CoolSculpting is still one of the best treatments to this day.’ However, she’s now looking firmly ahead – ‘patients want a more regenerative approach’ – and seeing beautiful results from such collagen stimulators as HArmonyCa: ‘It’s just the thing for noticeable “accordion lines” around the mouth.’ Even more popular, though, are her polynucleotides, which brighten tired-looking eyes, restore health to under-par skin and even fortify the scalp. ‘Hair loss is suddenly huge,’ she says, ‘but patients don’t always want to take an aggressive approach.’ (Hence, her Hydrafacial Keravive works to remove product build-up and oxygenate the scalp, thus encouraging new growth.) Most exciting, however, are her enzyme injections, for which she recommends treatments, two weeks apart. ‘They are less known in the UK, if incredibly popular in Korea and across South America,’ says the doctor, who injects or microneedles the formulas into acne scars, stretch marks and stubborn fat. ‘And they’re amazing for double chins.’ But unlike injections of deoxycholic acid, ‘which can cause complications’, the lipase-based solution only breaks down fat ‘so you don’t damage the surrounding tissues’. Meanwhile, three to four sessions of microneedling can deliver ‘a massive improvement in old stretch marks, which previously we wouldn’t have been able to target without using an aggressive laser.’ HArmonyCa from £750; recombinant enzymes from £1,500 (berkshireaesthetics.com).

Miss Sherina Balaratnam, Beaconsfield

Beaconsfield may not be the place you’d expect to find aesthetic innovation, but S-Thetics founder Balaratnam has been changing that. Ten years after launching her clinic – which has grown from two small rooms to a two-floor experiential space jostling with tech – the Malaysian-born doctor is as sharp as ever, while keeping patient wellbeing front and centre. ‘Post-lockdown, aspects of the human physiology changed,’ she says, ‘from skin presentation to mental health. Many have gone into “fight or flight” mode, and that has a huge impact on the face, body and scalp.’ She blames sun, sugar and stress for ‘inflammageing’ which, she says, ‘leads to a tired appearance, a bloated face and body, compromised skin and dehydration’. So, before the injectables come out, she lays foundations: perhaps puffiness-reducing lymphatic drainage, delivered by her hi-tech Lymphastim suit; Celluma LED light therapy, for dermal energising; or an at-home regime of EXO|E exosomes, plant-powered serums that boost the skin’s resilience and leave it feeling tangibly silkier. The body brought back into balance, it’s time for some muscle-toning Emface, to reset the facial architecture. (‘The muscles are the organ of longevity,’ says Balaratnam); or next-level microneedling using her Exion device: ‘It upregulates the body’s production of hyaluronic acid – and of elastin – which is a game changer.’ But what she’s most excited about is the launch of a new ‘PRP filler’ that is autologous (taken from an individual’s own cells). ‘In comparison to HA, it gives a much softer look, with less defined edges and a more natural result. It’s less about facial shaping; more about facial restoration.’ (Her first patient to receive it was 78.) ‘Today, there is so much that we can do beyond injectables,’ she says. ‘For more mature patients, it’s about the accumulation of health, as well as wealth!’ Cellenis DermaFiller from £2,500; Emface from £2,950 (sthetics.co.uk).

Threads

Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh

‘When I opened my first clinic in 1982, things were so different,’ says Dr Sebagh. ‘We only started talking about aesthetic medicine in 1985. Before that, it simply didn’t exist as a concept.’ It’s this heritage, this boundless experience, that sets the visionary doctor apart. (That, and the fact that his grand London clinic – the Grade I-listed Chandos House – looks straight out of Bridgerton.) But while he now has decades of experience under his belt, the sprightly Parisian is also razor-sharp when it comes to innovation. True, he’s still fixated on threads – and his new technique sees him criss-cross longer, stronger poly-L-lactic acid and caprolactone (PLCL) strands beneath the chin like a hammock, for superior support and a swan-like neck – but when it comes to injectables, ever more frequently, he’s favouring fat over filler. ‘Hollowing of the eye socket brings a lot of people in, but people should stop injecting fillers here. You’ve lost fat, so you need to restore it.’ He takes unwanted excess from the thighs or abdomen, filters and separates it into micro- and nano-fat, then uses the former for cushioning and the latter – ‘a liquid full of stem cells and growth factors’ – to stimulate the skin. (‘The longevity is amazing and, since fat doesn’t attract water, you avoid puffiness.’) Next, join the queue for an audience with skin therapist Bella, whose clientele includes fashion matriarchs and former supermodels. Or stay in the doctor’s chair for his Ultimate Skin Booster: a blend of PRP, polynucleotides, exosomes, peptides, vitamins and hyaluronic acid (plus a dash of glutathione and tranexamic acid, if pigmentation is a problem). This leaves no trace of intervention, just gleaming, glassy skin that will have everyone telling you how good you look. Threads from £2,000; fat transfer, price on application; The Ultimate Skin Booster from £800 (drsebagh.com).

Dr Pamela Benito

Consultations with Spanish-born Benito feel like catching up with your most fabulous friend. Her Belgravia clinic, all mid-century furniture and Hermès throws on chairs, is straight out of a movie set. And if you’re lucky, her miniature pomeranian Shiro will be in residence. Still, when it comes to smoothing unwanted sag, she doesn’t sugarcoat things. ‘In the past, I would turn patients away because of their age – but now I’m seeing those in their mid-thirties. They’ve had toxin, they’ve had filler, they don’t need more volume – but still, they’re noticing that softness creeping in around the jawline.’ She supports the lower face by running up to three vertical threads from the jowl area towards the temple behind the hairline. (‘The younger patient definitely sees a more immediate result,’ she admits. ‘Because their skin reacts better, they get that “wow factor” right away.’) What’s more, she likes to use Silhouette Soft threads; and increasingly in combination with collagen-stimulating Ellansé. As she explains: ‘Some patients are very slim, or they’re on weight-loss medications, which have led to a lot of skin laxity. This helps to thicken up the dermis and make it more resilient; and when we combine it with the threads, the results definitely last longer.’ Her therapies to aid recovery and help heal are also at the sharp end of science, from immune-boosting IV infusions to PRP. Then there’s her ozone therapy, which involves ‘taking out the blood, cleaning it and infusing it with ozone, so that it produces extra oxygen as well asnicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD)’, a coenzyme that plays a central role in the metabolic process. Administered via intra-muscular injection or a drip, this will supercharge your energy levels and wipe away fatigue. And to look as good as you feel, pick up her latest skincare fix on your way home. Ambuja’s Urban Power Fluid ampoules will leave your skin impossibly luminous. Thread lift from £2,700; Ellansé from £695; ozone therapy from £450 (drpamelabenito.com).

Dermatology

Dr Susan Mayou

With 35 years in practice – and her illustrious Chelsea HQ just celebrating its 20th anniversary – the Cadogan Clinic co-founder is the doyenne of dermatology. But Mayou is as sprightly as ever, still possessed of an infectious laugh and a penetrating curiosity about the patients who present to her. ‘I’ve had some with me since the very beginning,’ she says, ‘and in a way, they’ve grown up here. They’ve had their babies, brought in their teenagers and now we’re starting to see their grandchildren.’ Yes, hers is a family clinic through and through – which means no concern is too small – and she reports ‘an increasing demand for dermatology, as it’s getting so difficult to access on the NHS’. Especially when it comes to preventative monitoring and mole checks, she continues: ‘Patients sometimes want quick reassurance that all is well, and they shouldn’t have to wait for that.’ Melanomas aside, she’s a dab hand at dealing with the visible signs of ageing: ‘I’m a rather good shot with the liquid nitrogen – which swiftly does away with skin tags, or brown spots on the backs of hands.’ And when it comes to acne, which is also on the rise, her first step isto strip back lengthy skincare regimes, commenting: ‘Teens are the worst, because they’reso bombarded by social media. Their mothers bring them in, exasperated that lots of money is being spent and it’s making their skin break out more.’ If spots persist, however, low-dose Roaccutane can work miracles – ‘We know that in one week you’ll see a difference’ – and for those women who aren’t suitable, spironolactone has become her go-to alternative. But as her clients’ issues evolve, so do her tools: perhaps Profhilo Body for crepey tummy skin, or 10 per cent hydroquinone cream for post-partum melasma. ‘It’s good for those who can’t tolerateretinol,’ she says, ‘and far less aggressive than the chemical peels of old.’ Consultation from £350; Profhilo Body from £750 (cadoganclinic.com).

Dr Anjali Mahto

Consultant dermatologist Mahto is a force to be reckoned with. Encyclopaedic knowledgeof the skin? Check. Harley Street clinic so zen that it rivals most yoga studios? Check. An approach to her speciality that blends medical rigour, up-to-the-minute aesthetic know-how and mental healthcare? Check, check and check. Sterling CV aside, she’s also quick to get on her patients’ wavelengths; and new consultations always commence with a long, hard look in the mirror during which she asks them to pinpoint their top three concerns. ‘Most of the time, they don’t know what they need or desire,’ she explains. ‘I want to know what will ultimately make them feel better, as well as what downtime they’re prepared to deal with.’ Meanwhile, acne – and the subsequent management of scarring – is still her primary focus, and she’s alarmed by the ever-increasing rise in cases that she’s seen over the past decade: ‘We still don’t know why but, in years to come, I suspect we’ll be exploring the link between breakouts and taking HRT.’ For those seeking an alternative to medication and hormonal treatment, her AviClear device produces exceptional results, reducing sebum production to deliver a clearer complexion – ‘It won’t replace conventional medication, but it’s another tool in the box’ – and scarring gets a combination treatment: subcision with a cannula, followed by regenerative polynucleotides, trichloroacetic acid and laser, then a final application of healing, reparative exosomes. (For tricky-to-treat ‘ice-pick’ damage, she says, nothing beats her UltraClear laser.) And an invaluable asset is her in-house counselling psychologist Kimberly, who offers emotional support when needed. ‘After all,’ says Mahto, ‘you can’t talk about skin without talking about self-esteem.’ Consultation from £450; AviClear from £4,500; UltraClear from £800 (selflondon.com).

Dr Ariel Haus

Hailing from Rio, Haus is charm personified; and his Harley Street clinic – coincidentally, the cover-shoot backdrop for this year’s Tatler Beauty & Cosmetic Surgery Guide – is just as characterful. But he’s struck by a certain reticence among some of his British clients. ‘In Brazil, people talk openly about cosmetic procedures,’ he says. ‘In the same way they go to the hairdresser or have their nails done, they simply see aesthetic maintenance as looking after themselves. It’s never about vanity.’ Even so, the debonair derm does report a rise in candour among our younger generation who, like him, love nothing more than giving the latest hi-tech gizmo a whirl. And he’s often the first to land such new gadgets as the Ultherapy Prime – ‘It’s amazing for tightening and elevating the skin of the face, neck and décolletage, and can even lift the breasts ever so slightly’ – or the new Red Touch Laser: ‘Being non-ablative, it’s not only perfect for the patient who wants to have their treatment then go straight for dinner wearing their make-up; it also gives the most amazing glow.’ And right now, he’s super-keen on laser-assisted drug-delivery for hair loss. (He uses an ablative device – say, the new CoolPeel – to cre-ate micro-channels in the scalp before applying topical solutions of exosomes or polynucleotides.) ‘It’s much more comfortable than injections,’ he says. Nonetheless, the true calling of this doctor – who still works part-time in the NHS – is in treating more serious issues. ‘Patients can’t get appointments so readily with their GPs, so we’re seeing a lot of early skin cancers,’ he explains. ‘However, if they were to undergo CO2 laser plus photo-dynamic therapy, it would increase their chances of being in remission for longer.’ Post-treatment, he swears by SkinCeuticals Phyto Corrective serum to calm the complexion and stabilise the skin barrier. Don’t leave without it. Ultherapy Prime from £1,200; Red Touch laser from £95 (drhausdermatology.com).

Professor Firas Al-Niaimi

Al-Niaimi is the UK’s only professor of laser dermatology, and his experience in treating pigmentation, inflammatory conditions such as rosacea and more complex ones – for example, port-wine stains – is unrivalled. But he’s also deeply empathetic and zealous about putting patients back in control of their complexions. ‘The skin has a mind of its own,’ says the Taktouk Clinic’s resident derm (and author of more than 230 scientific publications on his speciality). ‘Seeing it as a whole package is vital. That might mean a combination of medication, the right topical ingredients, laser treatments and complementary practitioners. Where it goes wrong is when patients rely solely on one modality.’ Or on misunderstood modes; and he’s seeing a surge in sensitivity, acne and rosacea as a result of the products that women are using. ‘Just because an ingredient is trending, that doesn’t mean it’s what your skin needs,’ he says. ‘For example, not everyone tolerates vitamin C, which can be very sensitising for fair complexions that are redness-prone.’ The knock-on effect? ‘These conditions can be bewildering for the patient, as they don’t understand what’s going on beneath the surface. And social media isn’t helping either.’ While the heavy lifting is predominantly performed with lasers – the Pulsed Dye, which treats rosacea, acne and even red birthmarks is his particular workhorse – the professor’s philosophy is rooted in lifestyle management. And long-term plans. ‘Now and then, I still see patients I first treated years ago,’ he continues. ‘That’s because the skin constantly changes and fluctuates. While some conditions improve over time or with age – for example, eczema, which dies down in later life – sun damage and barrier disruption can worsen. In a way, this is a good sign, as it means that the skin is healthy and dynamic. But it most definitely has a mind of its own!’ Consultation from £300; Pulsed Dye laser from £600 (drfirasalniaimi.co.uk).

This feature was first published in full in the 2025 Beauty and Cosmetic Surgery Guide

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