Viral debate about drugstore shampoo divides internet—Experts weigh in
"Silicones can provide benefits like reduced split ends, improved resistance to humidity, and smoother, shinier hair," one expert told Newsweek.
Social media star Alix Earle recently sparked a heated debate after stating her hair felt "softer than ever" when she used expired Pantene shampoo and conditioner.
Her statement prompted a flood of opinions on the pros and cons of drugstore hair products, with certified trichologist Abbey Yung (@abbeyyung) weighing in on TikTok. "Everything you have ever been told about drugstore hair care is a lie," she said in a post that garnered 305,500 likes and 5.3 million views. Newsweek reached out to Yung for comment.
The hair expert said that many brands had removed softening and cleansing agents from their products to market them as sulfate-free, a move seen as a marketing ploy after sulfates gained a bad reputation in the haircare industry.
Commenters were divided, with some defending drugstore hair products and others critiquing them.
@abbeyyungAnd as a very important note- this actually isn’t just a drugstore vs high end issue. There are also drugstore brands that go the “all natural” route and remove ingredients that make our scalp + hair thrive in the name of being able to slap a *free from* label on their products. It happens at all price points. The key is to find products at whatever price point works for you that make your hair feel how @Alix Earle described- softer, smoother, shinier, more manageable, less frizzy, less tangled, etc. It’s also obviously not as simple as just looking for sulfates and silicones because as one example, there are other cleansing agents that are also considered to be deeper cleaning that aren’t technically sulfates. But I think it’s a great place to start. If you are using products that claim to be extra gentle, sulfate free and/or silicone free and your hair is constantly greasy, weighed down, dry, frizzy, tangled, etc, that’s a good sign it’s time to try something else. #healthyhair #haircare #hairtips
♬ original sound - Abbey Yung"But why, as a former stylist, did I always see waxy buildup on hair from drugstore? It affected the way we could color their hair," said one user.
Dr Ross Kopelman, a hair transplant surgeon told Newsweek: "As for drugstore products in general, they're formulated to give an immediate 'wow' factor. They contain conditioning agents, silicones, and other smoothing ingredients that make the hair feel great right away.
"That's why someone like Alix Earle might notice her hair is suddenly softer, shinier, and more manageable after using a product like Pantene. For healthy hair and scalp, this isn't necessarily a problem."
Alix Earle on October 28, 2024, in New York City. The social media star shared how her hair felt better after using expired drugstore products. Alix Earle on October 28, 2024, in New York City. The social media star shared how her hair felt better after using expired drugstore products. Jamie McCarthy / Staff/WireImageSome individuals struggle with thinning, hair loss, or scalp issues and need targeted solutions "that address these concerns at the root cause—literally," he said.
Yung said the rise in popularity of sulfate- and silicone-free products and how these trends have shaped haircare in her video.
But what are sulfates and silicones, and why do they spark so much controversy?
What Are Silicones?Valerie Aparovich, a biochemist and certified cosmetologist-aesthetician told Newsweek said silicones are synthetic, non-toxic compounds derived from silica.
"When applied to hair, they create a coat around your strands, helping to lock in moisture," she said. Silicones can provide benefits like reduced split ends, improved resistance to humidity, and smoother, shinier hair.
There are two main types:
Non-Water-Soluble Silicones:These silicones, like dimethicone and cetearyl methicone, are harder to rinse out and can build up over time, making hair look greasy and feel heavy. Aparovich warned: "Moreover, the hair shafts get blocked by silicone wiring, so moisture and nutrients can't get in, leading to hair getting dry, dull, and fragile."Regular use of clarifying shampoos is necessary to remove this buildup.Other examples of non-water soluble silicones include: cetearyl methicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, and dimethiconol.
Water-Soluble SiliconesWater-soluble silicones, like PEG-7 amodimethicone, are easier to rinse out and don't cause buildup. Aparovich noted: "They offer the same benefits as non-soluble but are easily washed out from hair with gentle shampoos and don't create buildup."You won't find yourself trapped in a vicious circle of blocking your hair, drying it off with clarifying shampoos, and then turning to silicones to improve the damage. Other examples include: pehenoxy PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-8 (or higher) dimethicone, bis-PEG-8 (or higher) dimethicone, bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax, laurylmethicone copolyol, and vinyl dimethicone. The higher the number in the component, the more water-soluble the silicone is.Professional hair and makeup artist Kate Johnson agreed, stating: "Non-water-soluble silicones create a wax-like buildup that dehydrates hair, while water-soluble silicones rinse off easily, causing no harm."
What Are Sulfates?Sulfates are detergents used in shampoos to create a foamy lather and cleanse the scalp. According to Shirley Jane Hair Care, they strip away oil and debris but can also remove natural oils, leaving hair dry and brittle.
Tiffany Young, a certified trichologist and the CEO of thinhairthick.com told Newsweek: "Sulfates themselves are certainly not the devil. However, the devil is in the details.
"The real devil is the overuse of sulfates which can create damage because it tends to strip the hair of beneficial oils that help to avoid overly dry and frizzy hair."
Occasional use can be beneficial, especially for those with oily scalps or heavy product buildup, but sulfate-free shampoos are gentler for normal to dry hair types.
Are Drugstore Products the Problem?Drugstore hair products like Pantene often deliver immediate results, making hair feel soft and shiny. But why?
In her TikTok post, Yung said it isn't a drugstore versus high-end issue since there are lower-cost brands that have removed silicones and sulfates.
Adria Marshall, founder of haircare brand Ecoslay, weighed in about drugstore products. "These products are formulated with ingredients like silicones, quaternary ammonium compounds, and smoothing agents that coat the hair, providing instant shine and detangling. softness, and detangling.
"However, they don't address deeper issues like moisture retention or scalp health," she told Newsweek.
Similarly, makeup artist Johnson noted: "It's a temporary fix that feels good but causes buildup and long-term damage."
The Case for and Against Drugstore ProductsHair transplant surgeon Kopelman acknowledged the pros and cons of silicones and sulfates.
"In my experience, not all silicones are bad for your hair. Some, like dimethicone, coat the hair shaft to lock in moisture, smooth the cuticle, and make hair feel softer, shinier, and more manageable. This is why people often feel their hair is less frizzy and easier to detangle after using these products.
"However, dimethicone is water-insoluble, meaning it can build up over time, especially if you're not using a clarifying shampoo occasionally. On the other hand, water-soluble silicones, like cyclomethicone, rinse out more easily and can still offer that smooth, silky finish without as much buildup."
Marshall advised tailoring products to your hair type and goals: "Drugstore products can suffice for basic maintenance if you have healthy, straight hair. But curly, coily, or chemically treated hair often needs higher-quality ingredients for hydration and nourishment."
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